We had planned to look at going back to Skye again this spring, but by the time we looked at cottages the prices seemed extortionate, so we had a quick look at other destinations. For the same price as a week in Skye we could get flights to Dublin and Monday to Friday in a city centre apartment hotel. We have been to Belfast before, but not to Dublin, so here we go...
Not only our first trip to Dublin, but our first flight on Ryanair (going) and Aer Lingus coming back. Mindful of the reputation Ryanair has of extracting extra cash out of customers, we were very careful packing the one suitcase we took with us, and all went well with the short journey to Dublin Airport.
We booked the Dublin Express to get us into to the city centre, great value at £30 for 3 returns, and our hotel was just a short walk from one of the stops along the River Liffey. We stayed at the Staycity Apartments on Mary Street Little. Check in was at 3 and we got there at one, so were hoping they could look after our case at least, but they were very kind and let us into our room early. We got settled in and looked for somewhere to have some lunch. There was a noodle bar just across the road called Biang Biang. It's a small place but had a table free and we tried it out. I had a chinese burger with pulled pork, Claire had a noodle dish and Cate had a massive bowl of broth with meat and soaked bits of bread. It was a very good start.
We then took a trip to Aldi for some supplies. The room had a small kitchen area, so we got cereals, bread and fruit, along with some tea bags. Claire went for a nap and Cate and I went off on a journey of exploration...
We started off going along Mary Street to the big metal spike we had seen earlier. Known as the Spire, it sits in the middle of the junction between Mary Street and O'Connell Street, providing a good means of navigating, as you can see it from a distace away. Near the Spire there is also a statue of James Joyce, and the portal that provides webcam views to one of various other cities. No one was baring their assets when we passed the portal! From here we headed down to the river and walked along the north shore of the Liffey.
We passed a memorial to the famine victims, and a tall ship aimed at teaching about the famine as well. Turning back, we crossed over the river and explored the South side.
There are certainly plenty of statues in Dublin, and we found a good number of them on the streets and in the parks. We visited Merrion Square Park and St Stephen's Green, spotting Oscar Wilde lounging on a big rock, just across the street from his old house. There are a good number of embassy buildings in this area, and generally lots of fancy looking buildings.
St Stephen's Green featured a couple of ponds, a summer house and a stone bridge, along with a non-functioning waterfall. After leaving it, we tried vsiting the Little Museum of Dublin, but didn't fancy paying to get in, so just visited the gift shop.
Back towards the river and we came to the campus of Trinity College. It seemed a bit weird that the students have their classes while tourists are able to wander all over the place, but it was interesting to see the old buldings making up the college. We found a big "Sphere in a Sphere" sculpture, and also discovered the Book of Kells experience, which was fully booked for the day. We visited the gift shop (again) and looked at enough guide books on the Book of Kells not to really want to see the original. The long gallery looked cool but we weren't going to pay just to see an old book and a nice room. There was plenty to see for free anyway.
One of the big attraction areas is the Temple Bar, a pub and also a street, with lots of pubs. It was buzzing with activity, and I suspect charging a fair premium to drink or eat in a tourist trap area. We saw a horse and cart and walked along the cobbled street. Further west is the Brazen Head, proclaiming itself not just the oldest pub in Dublin, but all of Ireland.
Back down to the river and we walked back along the north shore, reaching the Ha'penny Bridge, just one of many bridges in the city now, but when it was built the only way to cross the river without using a ferry. A half penny got you across to go to your work, the shops or your favourite bar. Luckily it doesn't cost anything now, or we'd have had to fork out at least 8p over the week.
Back to the hotel and Claire was up, and looking to get out to see the city too, so we headed out again. This time we walked by the castle (shut), Christ Church Cathedral (with lots of teens hanging about) and St Patrick's Cathedral (with a nice park in front of it). It was starting to get dark, so we headed back along Bride Street, which I'd noticed had a few chip shops. We stopped at Leo Burdock's, which had a host of photos of famous clientele on the wall, but had merely passable fish.
Day 1 complete: 31418 steps.
Tuesday looked like being nice so we decided to take a break from city life and visit a nearby seaside town. We booked up tickets for the Dart train to Howth (pronounced like oath, not like south) and set off for Connolly station to catch our train. The tickets were just 15 Euros for 3 returns - who said Dublin was dear? Anyway, a short train ride took us to Howth and we crossed the harbour to the start of the cliffside walks. There are a few options, but they all start the same way. We strode up a small road, then joined the cliffside path which took us a part of the way round the peninsula until we got to a lighthouse. The sea wasn't rough, but it was a long way down, not great for those of us scared of heights. After an hour on the cliff walk, we struggled up some steep steps to find the summit car park, which we could have driven to if only we had a car. The walk was lovely, scenic, very windy and hard work, and the trip back down to the town was pleasant, but hard work on the calves.
When we got back to the town we looked for a cafe, and found one in the little market area near the station. Despite knowing we'd find it difficult to get up again, we sat down for some toasties and a pizza slice. We took a wander along the front afterwards and finally found our way down to the beach, which is hidden behind the train station, for a paddle in the icy water.
After the train back to Dublin and a walk back to the hotel, Cate made us a prawn fried rice dish, which stunk up the room for the rest of the week. For the evening entertainment we watched the Avengers on the TV.
Day 2 completed: 28838 steps.
As if our legs hadn't had enough punishment, on Wednesday we visited Phoenix Park, a large park in the west of the city. Just a half hour walk to get there, and then as much as you can take once you're in. Cate had heard there was a herd of fallow deer in the park and was determined to find them, so she strode off ahead of us in search of deer. The whole park is about three miles from one end to the other so we didn't hold out much hope.
However we were just past the cricket ground when she spotted some. A group of about a dozen deer were munching grass close to the path, and didn't seem to mind us being fairly close to them. We got a fair number of photos, and then one eedjit let his golden retriever off the leash and it proceeded to chase the whole lot away into the distance.
Anyway, mission accomplished, so we stopped at the wee cafe next to the zoo on the way back out, and headed back to base.
Claire went for her usual afternoon nap, so Cate and I retraced our steps westward to the natural history museum. The museum itself is being refurbished, but they have a nearby building which houses the Dead Zoo Lab. We had a look at all the stuffed animals, and spent a pleasant hour there.
Still plenty of time left in the day, so on the way back we stopped at the castle to see if it was open this time. We didn't want to go in for a tour or anything, but I'd read that you could wander round the grounds. It wasn't looking too great at first. The front was just like a big fancy house and inside was a courtyard, but nothing very castley. However out the back it looked much better. It had a big hall a bit like the Hogwarts one, and a keep, or turret that was definitely much more like a castle.
There was also a garden out the back with a nicely patterned lawn, plus some water features and a memorial garden for police officers lost n the line of duty. We took a while to rest here and enjoy the sunshine.
Next to the castle is a free (hurrah!) museum with the collection of a Mr Chester Beatty. He was particularly interested in books and especially illuminated manuscripts (books with pictures) from all over the world. This was very interesting, and well presented in a lovely building. We enjoyed looking round the exhibits on several floors.
Back to base after this, and on the way back we passed the statue of Molley Malone, which was the last thing I'd marked on my Google maps for Dublin.
We looked for another place to eat this evening, and went to check the White Rabbit, which sounded good, but it was very busy. We ended up in the Bullet Duck and Dumplings restaurant, again just across the road from our hotel. We all had various versions of fried rice, and had an excellent feed.
Day 3 done: 27816 steps.
Thursday was rainy, but we knew it was going to be, so we had kept it for visiting the shops. We went through the nearby Jervis Centre, and then the Ilac Centre across the road. Cate wanted to visit the Normal shop, which is laid out like Ikea without the short cuts. You have to follow the one way system winding all round the shop. It's a strange place, not normal at all, mainly featuring cosmetics, but also with the occasional food item, some toys and games and the occasional marital aid in the midst of it all. Very odd.
Next we crossed the river to the south side and the George's Street Arcade, an old market place with small shops selling all sorts of curiosities. Hungry now, we stopped at a Korean street food place called Pocha, on the way back, to have some fried chicken, a bento box and a corn dog. Lots of good Asian places in Dublin!
The hotel had a laundry room so I took the laundry down to be washed and dried while Claire had a nap and Cate went out to find a cafe to do her university work. When she got back she wanted to experience the local pint, so we went to the pub on the corner and she ordered a Guinness, and a coke for me. The girl brought the drinks out and was going to give me the Guinness, so I had to point to Cate. Then had to tell her that Cate was paying. "Some man you are!" she said.
That was mostly it for Thursday. We had omelettes for dinner and watched a film called Swimming With Men.
Easiest day of the week: 11609 steps.
We had an easy start on Friday, our travelling home day, as the bus to the airport was due at 11.21. However, Dublin was in a bit of turmoil, with fuel price protests going on in O'Connell Street, and disrupting traffic, including the buses. I went out at 9.30 to check and there seemed to be buses running, so we left just a bit early and waited for the Dublin Express. Several locals passed by and told us the buses weren't running, but sure enough the good old blue bus appeared. It was full, but 7 people got off and 6 of us were able to get on and safely make our way to the airport.
Check in with Aer Lingus was fine, but I had to step aside at security as my bag was singled out. Once they had drug tested my bananas though, we were free to go. We had a longer wait than usual because we had left early, but a crazy tour through the airport to find our gate (336) used up some of the time. It was a big old propellor plane for the journey home, and it landed with a fair bit of a bang, but we were safely home in Glasgow.
Homeward day: 9102 steps, a bus, a plane and a taxi.
So we enjoyed our time in Dublin. It wasn't too expensive at all to eat out, though avoiding the most touristy areas certainly helped. Transport was cheap and very regular. Our hotel was pleasant and close to everything, and we had a decent time.